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Critics claim that Joseph Smith and other early Latter-day Saints didn't follow the Word of Wisdom, which was supposedly given as a revelation. They point to accounts in the Church's own printed history where Joseph drank wine and beer, and Brigham Young admitted drinking coffee regularly.
Observance of the Word of Wisdom has changed over time, due to on-going revelation from modern-day prophets, who put greater emphasis on certain elements of the revelation originally given to Joseph Smith. Early Latter-day Saints were not under the same requirements as today's Saints are. Latter-Day Saints believe that the Lord reveals his will to men "line upon line, precept upon precept," (Isaiah 28:10,13 and others) and that revelation is continues as circustances change.
The text of the Word of Wisdom forbids "strong drink" (D&C 89:5, 7), which was initially interpreted as distilled beverages (hard liquor). Beer, unfermented or lightly fermented wine, and cider were considered "mild drinks" (D&C 89:17) and therefore acceptable (note that verse 17 specifically permits "barley...for mild drinks"). The complete prohibition of alcoholic drinks of any kind only became part of the Word of Wisdom following the temperance movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries; Presidents Joseph F. Smith and Heber J. Grant supported the movement and Grant made complete abstention from alcohol in any form a requirement for a temple recommend in the early 1920s.
Consider also that drinking water in Joseph Smith's day (or during Biblical times) was a gamble —water purity was always questionable. A little alcohol in a beverage insured that it was free of viruses and bacteria. The development of germ theory in the late 19th century lead to chemical treatments to ensure a safe supply of public drinking water. A strict enforcement of the Word of Wisdom in Joseph Smith's time would have been a death sentence for many Latter-day Saints.
The same sort of "ramping up" of requirements occurred with regard to tobacco, coffee and tea. While use of these items was often discouraged by Church leaders, enforcement was usually light and confined to people who were severe abusers. For example, Brigham Young made the following remarks in April 1870 General Conference:
In more recent times, apostles and prophets have added illegal drugs to the list of prohibited items.
The Word of Wisdom is "a principle with promise," initially given "not by commandment or constraint" (D&C 89:2–3). Today's Latter-day Saints are required to observe it more rigorously than those who came before them.
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